padlock with screw key
Many prisoners in the 19 th century prison use this design.
After tidying up my previous Instructure, I wanted to try to build another simple lock.
My build criteria are pretty simple: I have to be able to build with the tools I have.
For more than a week, I had to finish it in a few nights.
Use as much material as I have or cheap as possible.
List of materials: 1 1/4 \".
DOM tube 250 wall-
The main body of Lock 2 4 inch \"steel bar stock for both ends and latch3 7/8\" is about 3/4.
125 thick steel plate stock of 1/2 square steel stock-about 6-
7 inch to shackle5 5/16-
20 Long nuts and 1 \".
Key5 035 tubing 5/16-18 bolt, 1/4-
20 bolts, springs and some misc screws etc.
The material list is not very large.
Required Tools: Misc file, saw (
I use this a lot)
Drill bit, faucet, hammer, screwdriver, etc. and a torch (
Used for bending the buckle and bracket)
Another pair was really tied to the table.
The free end of the buckle with a notch is installed in the lock body.
The notch matches the latch lock inside the lock body.
When the key is removed, the spring is fully extended, the lock is pushed into the gap of the lock, and the lock is locked.
When the key is inserted (
The key is a nut 5/16 long)
The thread is attached to the back of the pin, the pin sticks out a 5/16 Bolt and turns, it pulls the pin back, compresses the spring and pulls the buckle out of the slot in the buckle-
Unlock the lock.
So I keep it simple when selecting materials.
If you want to make one of these, you can easily change any material to suit your needs, make it bigger or smaller, etc. etc.
There are a few things
I chose a stock of 1/2 square meters as a shackle.
There is no special reason.
There are very small examples of these locks (like 1/8\")shackles.
The 1/2 square steel I used to use was exactly what was used to build the decorative stairs.
If you pay attention, there are scallops in it.
I just happened to find a bunch at the yard and decided to use it.
Lock body and latch.
This is important.
The latch and the end piece need to slide easily inside the lock body.
So the diameter should be a little smaller than the inner diameter of the body.
I used this too thick.
The 250 wall pipe of my project, because the inner diameter of the pipe is about.
The diameter is 1 inch 020 smaller than the 7/8 \"rod.
I use a sander to polish the diameter of the rod so that it can slide in easily.
If I did that again, I wouldn\'t have used that thick tube.
I will go with.
100 wall tube, find something else.
The gap to cut the latch in that tube is pain in the ass.
I decided to pretend to be a blacksmith and do the same amount of work on the buckle and stand with hot, Vice and hammer.
Poor mans bendingI put a tube with a diameter of 2 on the pair and used as the diameter of the buckle.
With a lot of heat, I managed to bend a crappy 180 degree bend to get the unloader.
I heat it up and bend some to get something that looks decent.
For the pivot end of the buckle, I heated Hector from one of the ends, put it on the secondary end and tried to hammer it flat. I re-
Heat and beat it until I have something about 1/4 thick.
You will also find that the square bar will twist and you have to heat it, twist it and turn it back. Note -
When flattening the end of the bar, I beat some on one side and then some on the other, which allowed me to try to keep it in the center of the bar.
At this point in time I did not do the other end of the shackle
The one whose pin gap is cut off.
The buckle HingeI has been doing the same thing.
First of all, I bent about 1 Stock at one end of the hinge \"90 degrees long to 3/4.
Then using pliers, channel locks, vice handles, screwdrivers and hammers and a lot of heat, I managed to bend the hinges around the lock body and came up with something that looked good.
I was looking for a handmade look and basically got what I wanted.
I heated this piece a dozen times and beat it before I got what I wanted. Note -
Don\'t buy enough material for the buckle hinge.
Buy 2 or 3 times extra.
You need extra length so you can hold on and wrap the material around your body and don\'t burn yourself, of course you will have extra if you throw away the first or 2nd
When the buckle hinge is finished, I bypass the end of the buckle so that it can turn in the hinge.
Then I drilled a 1/4 hole in the two of them, temporarily tied them together and tried to install them on the body of the lock.
This is to prepare to cut the shackle to the appropriate length and to determine where the slots in the lock body belong.
When I make the bracket, attach the buckle hinge to the body and it is easy to slide and slide on the lock.
So initially I welded the hinge to the lock so I could go ahead and adjust the final size.
I don\'t like the look of something that should have been welded together old, so what I ended up doing was at the bottom of the hinge I drilled & knocked a 1/4-
There are 20 inch holes on the lock body, and there is a gap hole on the bracket, and the two are bolted together.
I know it\'s not an \"old school\" but I decided I wanted to be able to remove the lock and the round hexagonal head screw looks a bit like a rivet.
I don\'t want to use welders either (Electric welding machine)
For this project :-)
So I need to do the following in this step: 1.
Cut off the non-hinge end of the shackle2.
Cut the groove on the lock body 3.
Flatten and bend the buckle so that it can be placed in the slot in the lock note-
Measure twice and then measure and cut once again.
So when it\'s all done, I want my unloader, just touch the inside of the lock when it\'s plugged in.
This is my original idea.
I guess where I need to cut the buckle with a hacksaw.
The latch end of the ShackleI was created for the old school here, so I decided to heat and hammer the end thinner and wider.
If you don\'t want to go this way, you can grind out 1/1/8 inches from each side of the shackle to narrow it down, or do nothing and use it as it is.
All of the 19 th century examples of prison shackles I found have two endings, so I decided to do so.
This is a repeat of the other end of the shackle.
Heat and hammer.
Make sure you hammer both sides evenly so that both sides shrink evenly.
I\'m not 100% successful here, but it\'s close enough to me.
Do not trim or clean this end for the time being.
Cut your initial slot and then determine the number of latch ends to grind with the slots in the extended fuselage.
Once narrowed down, I marked where I needed to cut the slot on the body, depending on where the buckle fell on the body.
The slot will be longer than the unloader end, as the unloader is moving around its pivit point, so it will be further at the end of the lock and eventually touch the body a little closer than the original position-i. e.
It\'s basically longer than you think.
Cutting the slot I on the lock body uses a bit size that is one larger than the width of the flat part of the buckle hammer.
I want the slot/unbuckle to be as precise as possible, so I know I\'ll drill less and archive more.
You don\'t want a slot too big in your lock.
You don\'t want to be able to slide the screwdriver into the slot, push the latch back and open it.
Now, no matter how painful the filing becomes, the less the better.
On the line I marked for the slot.
Start drilling as close to each other as possible in straight lines. Then -
I took out my best chisel, sharpened it, and chiseled out the slot I could to avoid having to file as much as possible.
When you do this, you will soon know how good the chisel you have.
After the gouging, they tried to widen the slot a little.
In fact, I have to buy a document that meets my requirements. BTW -
Don\'t hesitate to add to the tool collection, and don\'t take on the project because you don\'t want to add new tools to the collection.
This is where the 1/4 thick wall tube came back to bite me.
There is little or no space to archive the slots as the files impact the inside of the tube.
It took me a long time to open the slot until a hole was cleaned up.
I think it would come in handy to use dremel here, but I don\'t.
Now you have an initial slot and a flat buckle end.
Grind, archive, cut and install both until the buckle end is in and out of the body.
KeyMy key consists of 1.
065 Wall tube at 5/16-18 long nut.
I grind the hex on the nut so I have a round main body and Hex and weld the pipe to the top of the long nut --key done!
To make it more beautiful, I added a little rolling work to the key, took an 18ga sheet of metal, and I wrapped a 1/4 Bolt with pliers.
It took only a few minutes to do it, 2-
I tried something that looked cool and old before I finished.
I then gently weld it to the ring on the key.
The latch consists of a 5/16 Bolt, a spring, and two 7/8 round bases (
Latches and ends).
For the final piece, I cut the bar slice of 5/8 and drilled a hole large enough in its center so that the key could go through the hole.
I used to grind the diameter of the material so it can be put into the lock body.
Don\'t be too hasty, don\'t be too tight, so you have to hammer it in.
Latch cutting for Rod stocks of approximately 1 1/4 \"inch length.
At one end of the center I drilled a hole of 5/16 bolts.
At the other end, I marked a line in the middle of the stock and cut a gap from the inside with a hacksaw.
At the other end, I grinded a 45 degree slope inside. NOTE -
Make sure to drill holes in the precise center of the end piece, lock and drill holes, and then tap the holes of the bolts perpendicular to the locking surface.
If you do not do this when you assemble the parts and try to use them, the key may not be aligned with the bolt, or if the hole it knocks is bent, you will try to pull the latch side in the lock body, it may be bound. The spring.
Don\'t be stiff or too weak, it must of course be placed inside the lock body and be able to get the key through the lock body.
I originally had a spring that was hard & when I found another one I melted two springs that were attached to the latch and the end :-(So -
How long is the bolt-
Well, you have to solve the problem based on the material you use.
Start with it for too long, cut it down until it starts working.
Don\'t lock it in.
Why did you screw the spring to the latch and end?
Because the latch wants to turn when I try to unscrew the key (rotate)
This makes it out of line with the end of the shackle.
When the key is screwed in, connect the spring to the end piece and the latch to prevent the latch from spinning.
Assembly of LatchSo you have to install the final piece into the body instead of rotating.
You can weld it with DingTalk (
You won\'t be satisfied)
Or what I did, what you can\'t see in the picture is that I drilled a 6-
32 holes go through the body and insert the ends a little so I can screw the two together with the anti-water slot head screw.
You can\'t see it in the picture because the buckle hinge covers it.
It took only a few minutes and really solved it.
Weld the spring to the latch until I\'m happy with the way everything works and finally do it.
You may have to shorten or stretch the spring in order for the spring to work, or do another lock --
Long or short working hours.
Shorten the spring. you can do two things.
Cut it down or bend it to make it shorter.
I suggest you bend it instead of cutting it.
The two ends of the spring may be flat, so it is well placed on the latch and end.
If you bend it, you may need to bend it twice to keep it aligned so it can be put into the hole.
If you don\'t have a torch, you may be able to weld the copper tubes together with a propane torch.
Don\'t put too much heat on the spring, otherwise it will melt in half.
If you are trying to use the MIG welder, please be careful that the spring will melt even on the lowest setting of the welder, just touch the rod to the spring.
Now that you have built the lock, the lock slot is cut, the lock fitting is cut in the slot, you can now cut the gap at the end of the lock and smooth/grind it to work.
I marked the buckle end with a felt pin and slid the lock in, tapping it to mark where it came into contact.
Make sure the latch is perpendicular to the buckle end.
From there, I measured it twice, then measured it again, and then started putting the gap into the shackle.
I spent my time because I wanted it to have a precise tight fit when it was locked up.
So now you should probably have a lock that works to some extent.
Make and install the other end to \"stick\" the unloader on the Lock & install the end to cut the other piece of 7/8 strands to the other end of the lock.
Let this one stay at the end --
I did the same thing for the other end.
I drilled a 6-
There are 32 holes on the lock body and a screw is inserted.
I used a sink head and a 1/4 bit to sink the hole.
Then, once screwed in, I polish the remaining screw head to the top so that it matches the rounded body.
I can also easily put the final pressure into the body and insert it in place.
Remove the buckle rivets to the buckle bracket.
I used this technique in the previous lock Instructure and it looks cool, so I used it again. I used a 1/4-
Bolt, polish the hexagonal head into a circle similar to the rivet head.
Then I cut the length of the bolt so that it can stick out the bracket of about 3/16.
I heat the end of the bolt to orange heat and grind the end flat. Careful here -
You can see that it is closed so much that the latch may no longer be able to rotate on the stand.
I don\'t want the lock to look new, so I tried something different here to give it a \"reverse\" look. 1.
I saw something on YouTube about adding metal to hot vinegar to etching metal.
This applies only to certain types of metals.
Steel is not one of them. 2.
There are some references on this site about etched blades that you can take a look. 2.
The metal is blue.
For more details, look for \"birchwood Casey super blue liquid gun Blue \".
You can buy this at any store that sells guns.
Basically, it etched the metal into a beautiful dark blue.
I did this on the key of the lock but decided not to do the lock and if you look closely at the key you can see it in the photo. 3.
Paint, powder coating, medium in rain. etc. etc. Up to you.
When I put this together, it was rusty and lost its shine & it looked working so I left like it.
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