The kayak-designed Jupiter point collection is designed for ease-to-build, fun-to-
A versatile collection of paddle and kayak.
Panel Hull and unique 3-
The panel deck, the boat can be assembled quickly, with many features and very good performance.
The Ganymede a 13\' leisure kayak currently has plans to use 3 plywood
You can download the free plan from my website: I also wrote it into a 7\' kid\'s boat, which I call \"Io\" and which can be made with a piece of plywood.
There are also free plans for this.
Chesapeake Light Boats make high quality boat kits and if you don\'t want to look for materials on your own they will provide the complete kit for Ganymede.
Makezine on my blog.
Com dedicated to Io design.
The building is done with a technique called \"stitching\"and-
Glue, made of thin plywood. The stitch-and-glue (S&G)
The method is cut into shape using plywood that is temporarily connected together with copper wire.
This line is \"needle \".
Plywood holds the panel in a predetermined shape with a wire and is permanently bonded together.
The wire is removed, the whole thing is covered with a glass cloth, and the cloth is saturated with epoxy resin to make it strong and waterproof.
The preferred material for this building is 4mm thick okoume marine plywood covered with 6-
Glass fiber cloth coated with epoxy resin per yard per ounce.
This will provide the strongest, longest-lasting building, but you can replace it with a Lawan \"door\" if you are in a pinch
Okoume of epoxy resin and \"skin\" of polyester resin \".
Lauan is easy to have gaps on the inner veneer that makes plywood.
These gaps weaken the material and may build up condensate to cause rot, but when you finish the work of Lauran, pay a little attention to the building and storage to make a beautiful boat.
The description of the technology in these instructions assumes epoxy, and you may need to adjust your technology if you choose to use polyester.
Plywood is usually made of 8 feet long plates.
Most Jupiter point designs use more than 8 feet panels.
Therefore, you often need to make longer plywood.
The standard way to do this is to create a \"scarf\" joint.
All this means that the ends of the two pieces of wood are shaped into a sharp knife.
Like angles, the two matching angles overlap and stick together.
The glue used is the same epoxy that you use to apply a glass fiber cloth with a little powder, which is used to thicken the glass fiber cloth.
The powder usually used is colloidal silica or cellulose, but the bread powder can also be used.
First of all, you need to form the shape of the scarf.
Your plan will provide guidance on how to cut plywood and you can continue with 2 full sheets of the scarf, but these can be difficult to handle.
You might want to cut the plywood into smaller sizes so it\'s easier to move.
Stack the plywood with the edges you want the scarf to align.
Plywood often has a \"better\" side.
Flip one of them so that the better side is up on the one hand and the better side is down on the other.
This way, when you stick the scarf, you can better stick both sides.
Even if you have a piece of scrap plywood of the same thickness on the top and bottom, it helps to get the scarf.
Stagger the edges back 1 inch to make a shallow stair box.
Clip it to the edge of the workbench so that the layers at the bottom hang the edges in small quantities.
One of the best tools to cut the scarf is a sharp block plane, but you can do it easily with a Sander.
If your plane has not been sharpened in the last 24 hours, it may need to be ground.
If you never grind it, you definitely need to grind it.
When you walk down the stairs, use the slope of the stair steps as a guide.
Cut into each step evenly, trying to keep the amount of material you cut from each layer evenly consistent.
The goal is to make a smooth, flat wedge from top to bottom.
If you think the planning on one floor is wider than the other, adjust your planning to make them even.
When you go deep into the plywood, you start to see dark stripes, and then the wood may change color slightly.
The dark thread is a layer of glue between the bottom of the plywood.
Use these glue lines as a guide to make sure the surface is flat.
Keep the glue line straight and straight.
If you see a part of the line bend up, above both sides, then follow the plane on both sides to keep the rest of the line uniform and straight.
When the sides of the plywood have sharp edges and do not drop from one layer of plywood to the other, you finish cutting the scarf.
Quickly polish the surface with 80 sandpaper to promote good glue bonding.
Take a piece of plywood, flip to the sharp edge, facing the other side, and the slope is facing down.
Put a wax paper under the joint.
Mix some epoxy and add the powder to make the mayonnaise consistency glue.
Apply this to the plane.
Align the joints so that the two wedges overlap 1 \", making the thickness consistent at all times.
Put a layer of wax paper on top of the seam and pile some heavy objects to hold the scarf tightly.
When the epoxy is cured, peel off the wax paper and scrape away any rough spots and polish them.
Don\'t sprinkle sand on the wood around the joints.
If you load the free plan down, draw the panel and you need to draw the dimensions in full size.
These sizes are sometimes referred to as \"offset\", which will require a large piece of paper, such as one that you can buy at a hardware store or at a home center.
Mark the size of each panel on paper with small \"x. Push some \"T\"-
Pin into x and bend a narrow, flexible wooden strip or rather hard wire around the pin to form a long and smooth curve.
Mark along this curve to draw the edge shape.
You can fold the paper in half and cut out the symmetrical part.
The layout panel cuts your pattern from the floor plan.
As suggested by the plan, lay the pattern on the plywood.
If you find a more efficient pattern layout, feel free to use it, but on the long board, you want the texture of the plywood to extend down the length of the long axis as much as possible.
For parts that need to be cut both, such as the side of the hull and the front deck, gently mark the position with a pencil on both sides before any cutting is made.
You want to make sure you arrange the parts correctly to get two parts.
Plywood usually has a better side, flip the pattern over when you lay out the other side so you can show a better plywood side on both sides of the boat.
Once you \'ve identified the exact source of each part, tape the pattern down so they don\'t move.
Make sure the paper is smooth and flat with no wrinkles, bumps or lifting areas.
Punch into plywood on paper with awl or sharpened nails along the edges of each section.
Make the marks deep enough so you can see them later.
Put the marks closely together as needed to ensure that you are able to reproduce the curves accurately.
This may be every 3 or 4 inch of the straight line area, or every 1/2 to 1 inch of the place where the curve is tight.
There is almost no circle \"\" Mark marked with the line trace hole on the pattern.
Use 1/16 of the drill bit to drill out all these holes at the intersection of the line.
Connect the AWL mark using a pencil and flexible wooden strip.
Make a black line that is easy to see when actual cutting is required.
Before you do the final cut, cut the parts you are going to make loosely into matching parts.
Cut using an electric clamp saw.
Install a new, fine-tooth, smooth cutting blade in the tool.
Outside the line but very close.
Want to know where you are going to cut the other side so you don\'t cut to the area needed on the other side.
If you cut the marked part roughly first, you can use it as a pattern on the other side.
After cutting the two pieces, place the mark on the top and display the mark.
Drill the stitching hole on the first side into the other side.
When you drill a hole, pass a small finish nail or Brad through the hole to prevent the panel from shifting.
Now cut out the final shape with your clamp saw.
Cut outside the line that leaves half.
If you are not comfortable, leave more lines, then come back with a block plane or a grinding block, evenly edge, and remove half of the lines.
Cut all parts in a similar way.
Work slowly and carefully.
While Jupiter point ships are easier to tolerate a little inaccuracy than other S & G designs, a good, accurate cut will make assembly easier and make sure the completed ship is the ideal shape.
Start drilling from the bow end of each edge, drill 1/16 \"diameter about 1/2\" holes from the edge every 6 inch m along the edge.
You need to drill along each side of the bottom, the lower edge of the side, the center edge of the front deck panel.
The front and rear edges of the side plates are drilled every 3 inch m.
Do the same on the front deck panel on the short side near the cockpit.
Two forward side drill matching holes near the rear deck cockpit.
With the side and front deck sections, you can stack the two parts together while drilling to save time.
You don\'t need to have holes on the top edge of the side or on the outside edge of the deck.
Connect the end to the side panel.
About 3 \"long wire cutting pieces.
Insert them through the holes, all the way through both sides.
Bend the wires, keep both ends at right angles and tighten them before winding.
Tighten the wire with your fingers.
Clip the two hull shapes onto some saw horses.
Look at your plan to determine which end of the bottom panel is the front and which form is the front.
Adjust the distance between sawhorse so that the bottom panel is loosely lowered to the form.
Lift the side panel attached to both ends of the form.
Separate the middle so that the bottom can be placed on both sides.
The bottom is mounted inside the side and the wires go through the holes.
If the holes are not aligned, you may arrange the bottom backwards
Try turning it around
Wire the copper into 3 \"long.
Bend them into a loose \"U\" shape and push each leg out through a stitch hole.
Outside the ship, pull the wires so that the exposed ends are about the same length.
Keep the wire at an angle of about 90 °.
Tighten the wire with a pair of pliers, then screw the wire and fix the panel tightly together.
Connect the wires on the deck.
First, connect the two symmetrical bow plates together.
First of all, stack the two panels together and have better faces outside.
Along the shorter part of the two long edges, the wires pass through the stitch holes.
Wrap the wires firmly together, leaving a small gap between the twist and the plywood.
When all the stitching holes along the edge are connected, open the panel like a book.
Locate the double stitch holes along the longer long edges.
This is where the deck form will go.
Connect one side of the deck to one side of the form.
Open the deck to fit the deck form.
Wire stitching will make the \"book\" very stiff, but just open it slowly and evenly.
Connect the other side to the form and twist the wires so the deck fits the form tightly.
Again you want the wires to go from inside out.
Next it is stitched at the rear of the deck to accommodate the opening \"V\" of the two front deck sections \".
When the wire is stitched tightly, glue the seam with CA glue.
Before bonding, before checking-
Ensure a deck with even seams.
Reach under the deck with your hand and feel the top of the seam.
Joints should feel smooth and even.
If the feeling on one side is higher than that on the other side pushing the seam with a finger, to align it.
The hull is sticky.
Welded together with CA glue.
Check the alignment of the bottom and should be aligned with the bottom of the side.
Make corresponding adjustments.
If the bottom is not kept in place, tighten the wire slightly. Run a short (1/4”)
Along the seam, the beads of CA glue go 3 \"into the double.
Don\'t end with this, there\'s a little glue every few inches.
After applying glue at about 1 feet of the seams, atomize the glue with an accelerator.
Move along both sides until the whole of China is connected together.
Drop a few drops on the stems at both ends of the boat.
Spray glue to fix the glue.
Remove all wires when the seams are glued and fixed and the stems are fixed together.
Clip the wire inside with a pair of diagonal cutters.
Pull the wire out of the outside.
Leave the wires at the top of the side of the table.
These will be covered with glass and will be removed later.
Make sure they are closely connected to the inside of the hull.
The deck and Hull are now ready for rounded corners of thickened epoxy.
Check if the hull is twisted by laying several straight bars in gunwales.
Place one stick near the front and the other near the back.
Close your eyes to the bow and look at the two sticks.
Everything should be good if they look parallel.
If one end of a stick looks higher than the other, adjust the saw horse to make the stick parallel.
\"Sashimi\" is made of epoxy resin and thickened with wood flour.
In fact, it will work well if you have bread flour.
Mix about 1 cup of epoxy and then add a small amount of flour until the thickness of peanut butter is reached after mixing.
This \"dookie schmutz\" is the material for filleting.
If dookie schmutz is too thin, it will not stay in the seam and it will be difficult to apply if it is too thick.
Put schmutz in the zipper
Lock the freezer bag.
Cut a bottom corner from the bag and hit a 1/4 \"in the hole \".
This is a simple cake decorator.
Squeeze a schmutz line into the chine seam.
You want a gunk worm with a diameter of 1/4 to 5/8 to be allocated directly to the corner between the deck and the hull.
Since the big bag of schmutz in your hand can warm up and start healing, it\'s a good idea to get the whole bag of film material at once and then go into the smoothing step.
A nice schmutz bead was assigned along the seam and now it\'s time to smooth it out.
I use a plastic picnic spoon for high matching.
Technology smoothing tool.
Push the spoon firmly into schmutz and pull it along the seam.
Place a finger in the bowl of the spoon to apply pressure and control.
Use a smooth, uniform pull to get a smooth and uniform rounded corner.
To clean things up, avoid poking schmutz with a spoon, instead use long and smooth strokes.
If you need to add more schmutz to the seam, mix more, put it in the bag and distribute it where needed.
Use a new package if needed.
If you apply enough schmutz at the seams, you should get extra extrusion.
You need to clean this up.
Scrape the excess with a plastic scraper.
Hold the scraper at a lower angle and pull it parallel to the seam so you don\'t break the actual rounded corners in the seam.
If you use enough pressure on the spoon, there should be a clean line between the fillet and the squeezeout.
Use this clear space as a guide when you scratch the squeezeout.
Collect the excess schmutz in your epoxy blend Cup. It can be re-used.
If you need to mix more epoxy and dookie schmutz, you can mix these excess epoxy with a new batch.
I know you\'ll want to grab a bunch of schmutz with your fingers and push it to a place where you need a little extra.
Avoid this impulse.
You just make a mess.
Adhere to the procedure of distributing bags, smoothing with spoons and removing excess parts with scraper.
Your results will be cleaner.
You will have a chance to use your fingers soon.
When you have finished the long seams of the hull and deck, you can now mess up your gloves by making rounded corners on the stems of the hull.
You want to put a lot of material on the bow and stern of the ship as this is where you will hit something.
Apply the fillets to both sides and then work on the stems at both ends.
The stems may be subject to some abuse if you run into anything, and a good sashimi strengthens them.
You should make a fillet that looks 1/2 to 3/4 wide.
First, squeeze a large, thick worm of dookie schmutz into the joint area.
You may not be able to get your hands and zipper
Lock the bag where you want it, so throw the material in the STEM area with gravity.
Press the material firmly on the joint with your gloved fingers, forcing it to fill the Corner area.
Starting from the bottom, fingers up evenly and smoothly.
Wrinkles on the gloves can cause the Grove and roughness on the fillet, so it helps to hold the gloves tightly to your fingers.
Like other fillets, don\'t poke and poke the material because it just makes a mess of more things.
Scrape the excess with your scraper.
Repeat the filleting process on the deck.
Since the angle of the seam is very shallow, you can clean up the excess by pressing the middle of the scraper in the seam, so that the edges on both sides can squeeze out.
The rounded corners will be small, but there is no need to have a large amount of material in the seams in order to be strong.
Do not wait for the fillet to dry before entering fillet lassing.
When dookie schmutz is still soft, it\'s easier to put the glass in.
If you don\'t do this, you may need to come back and polish the fillet smooth.
Put the fabric down the hull and smooth on the bottom and sides.
Don\'t press the cloth on the fillet because it will only make it stick together and it\'s harder to move.
Trim the excess fabric about 2 inch above the side of the hull.
Don\'t worry about putting the cloth perfectly into the STEM area, just leave enough cloth for yourself and cover everything later.
Mix about 1 cup of resin and pour it directly into the bottom of the boat.
Precautions about epoxy safety: Epoxy is a mixture of petrochemical products.
Although it doesn\'t smell much, it does produce some steam.
These steam are generally considered safe, but epoxy has an allergic reaction in some people.
I will be careful if it is my lungs.
Personally, the respirator I wear is of good quality and comes with a filter suitable for organic compounds.
You don\'t want to apply the resin to your skin either.
Wear gloves when using epoxy.
Long-sleeved shirts and trousers can also protect you from splashes.
If you have epoxy on your skin, wipe it clean with a dry towel and wash it with soap and water.
Do not clean the skin using solvents such as acetone, paint or white vinegar.
These will only make it easier for compounds to get into your blood flow.
Apply epoxy resin around using plastic scraper.
Move the epoxy from a clear/shiny place to a white/dry place.
Pull the epoxy up, but do not press the scraper into a soft fillet.
You want to keep the epoxy continuous.
Instead of placing puddles here and there, try to push the solid front from the middle of the boat to both ends.
If there is a gray/partially damp area, don\'t worry, but don\'t capture a large area of loose white cloth between areas of saturated transparent cloth.
When you reach the ground step where the extrusion no longer moves any resin, it\'s time to mix more.
Pour a puddle at the bottom again, starting from where it\'s already wet
Spread out in a dry area.
Keep pulling the resin up as you go.
Switch sides often so you can see what needs to be done.
Once the epoxy unfolds, you will have plenty of time to process it, however, if you leave a lot of stuff in a mixing pot or in a large puddle, it will start to harden and become harder to handle.
It\'s better to move quickly, but deliberately, instead of making each position perfect before entering the next position.
Instead, at this point, you can wet the cloth and smooth it first, and then come back and touch the dry spots.
If you need more epoxy on the side and there is not enough epoxy on the bottom, use the chip brush to pat the brush filled with epoxy in the area, then spread it out with your scraper.
When you pull the epoxy on the side, you will see that the fabric is lifted a little from the machine area.
This is to be expected.
Resist the urge to take the eraser and slide the edges into the fabric and fillets.
This will make a mess of the fillets and will not eliminate the bridge cloth.
We will repair it later.
Now waste time worrying about it will only make it harder in the future.
Distribute epoxy to the end.
Then smooth one side of the glass onto the stem, allowing to pile up a lot of wrinkles or folds on the other side.
Cut along the stem with scissors and cut down the bottom all the way.
Pull back the loose side of the fabric, plug the smooth side back into the rounded corner, eliminating any wrinkles that may appear in the cut.
Then plug the loose side onto the existing glass.
If the overlap extends more than 2 inch, you can reduce the excess.
As needed, apply the epoxy to the fabric using a brush and apply the epoxy to the over-ground fabric.
If you leave a gap on the fabric for some reason, just cut a piece from any debris you cut earlier.
Now, for those cloth bridges in China.
These appear when you squeeze the epoxy out of the side.
When you do this, you pull a small piece of fabric with resin.
As a result, there is not enough fabric on board to fill the rounded corners.
The solution to this problem is to introduce a small amount of cloth by sliding down from the top.
Place it above the rounded corners with a slightly dry brush and point it down, gently pressing the fabric down to the rounded corners.
It should be fairly easy to slide, but sometimes it gets stuck with the rough top edge of the plywood.
You may need to lift the fabric on the top slightly from the edge so it doesn\'t get stuck.
Gently work from one end of the bridging fabric to the other, slide the fiberglass into the bubble area.
You may not need to add any more resin, but when you do, you look for areas that are slightly gray or look lacking in resin.
If there is a shiny place nearby, use your scraper to spread the excess resin of the shiny place to a dim gray place.
If there is no resin source yet in the area, apply a brush filled with resin on site and scrape it.
Before entering the deck, check if there are bridges and dry points in the hull.
You have now done the hardest job of the whole project.
Everything else will be easier.
Place the glass on the deck and trim it a few inches.
Smooth the fabric to remove any wrinkles.
Mix the epoxy and pour a small puddle on the back deck.
If you need to be told not to pour it into the cockpit hole, it will go through.
Apply epoxy resin around with scraper.
Similarly, do not capture a large number of dry cloth islands in the wet ocean, from here to the other end of the ship, move around in the tsunami, while working on both sides of the cockpit.
Check your work carefully and look for glass that is gray or poorly saturated.
Pat a little resin where needed and scrape around.
When you get wet
On the outside of the fiberglass, you should get matte surface treatment and the texture of the fabric is obvious.
There should be no shining spots.
If you need to remove anything extra, scrape the excess with your scraper.
After scraping the glass, use the trash Cup to remove the excess resin from the scraper.
Do not use too much pressure when scraping off excess parts.
Let it go if you\'re not sure.
If you can get it on the same day, wait a few hours after applying the resin.
The epoxy should be partially cured at this time, but still soft.
Now is the best time to add a layer of resin to the fabric to seal any pin holes.
Apply a thin layer of mixed epoxy coating to the entire interior surface of the deck and hull using a foam roller.
If you can\'t make this coat right away, let the resin set and then wear the surface with green Scotch whisky
Brite kitchen washer that helps epoxy to adhere better.
Then apply a thin coat.
After the second coating is cured, the copper wire holding the form is clipped.
If you leave the wire a little longer, you can unplug it with pliers.
Don\'t try too hard if they don\'t make it easy, just clip them together and we\'ll deal with them soon.
Trim excess fiberglass with a tool knife.
Hold the edge of the blade tightly against the wood and hold the fiberglass.
Cut off the glass with a smooth and uniform stroke.
You don\'t need to see on the glass, just lean the knife tightly against the wood and slide down the length of the boat.
You should be ready to flip the Hull over to the saw.
Put the deck aside now.
Glass fiber does not like sharp corners, delicate sharp corners, easy to damage.
The best tool to round the chin is the block plane, but you can do it with a grinding block.
If you don\'t think the plane is better than polishing, it may be because your plane is dull.
If you just bought it in the past week or didn\'t grind it, it would be dull.
Sharpen it and give it a try.
Set the blade so it doesn\'t stick out.
If you have a plane with adjustable throat, please open it all the way.
If the plane is well adjusted and sharp, you should shave off a little bit along the first trip of the plane.
It should not look quite the same, but if you shave a lot, it means your plane is already deep.
If you scrape some small pieces off your edge, the plane will get dull, sharp and try again.
First planing a chamfer at a 45 ° angle, in other words, the angle between the plane and the bottom of the hull is the same as the angle between the plane and the side.
Keep the same angle until the top edge of the Chamfer is cut back to the edge of the hull bottom plate.
Don\'t cut into the lower panel.
Next, knock the plane down from each side of the chamfer.
This means sliding the plane several times at the top edge of the chamfer, cutting slightly into the bottom panel, and then sliding several times along the bottom edge.
If the plane continues to suggest you, you can also do the same with coarse sandpaper.
A good sharp plane is faster and easier, but sandpaper can also work.
After making 3-
Edge chamfer, knock down the remaining corners with a plane.
Use your hand to feel the sharp edges.
Your fingers are very sensitive and abnormal.
Put your hand on the side and pay attention to how you feel.
Around the stem in a similar way to China.
First, make the front edge flat and extend straight lines in a range of about 1/2 to 5/8 wide.
Then knock the corner down with the chamfer on both sides.
Then continue to complete the rounding on the stem.
Roll the cloth over the hull and trim the excess parts of about 4 \"to 6\" below the side edge.
This excess absorbs some epoxy drops so they don\'t mess up your floor.
Smooth the glass at the bottom and let it hang on the side.
Apply the resin in the same way as the interior.
Pour a puddle at the bottom and spread it out with a scraper.
Again, work on the captain\'s united front.
Pull a small amount of resin on the side at a time.
When you pull the scraper to the machine, flip your hand to keep the same angle between the scraper and the surface.
If you need extra resin, apply epoxy with a woodworking brush where you need it and scrape around.
Don\'t try to pour the resin to one side, it will end on the floor.
When you get to the end, wet both sides all the way to the stem so you can stretch out a neat piece of cloth from the end.
Please note the \"hungry\" area in the photo, where the glass is not fully saturated near the edge of the chin and bottom.
I want to take care of the stems when the resin is still liquid and easy to handle.
I know that I will be able to reach these places soon, so I will act soon.
Cut off about 1 inch of the excess glass from the stem.
Cut the corners from the \"bottom\" of the stem so that the glass can be folded on both sides without gathering.
Peel the cloth from one side and fold the opposite side.
Get this completely wet.
Place the loose side on the new wet glass.
Then fold the second side and get wet.
There may be some loose fabric sticking to the corner of the stem \"bottom.
Wet it as much as you can, but don\'t indulge in it.
Go back and take care of whatever you missed in the rest of the hull and scrape the excess into your trash Cup.
Let the epoxy be installed, then flip the hull and trim the glass.
The glass is easiest to trim when the epoxy is still a bit green, but you don\'t want it to be so soft that you will damage the glass with a saw horse.
Again, lean the edge of the blade tightly against the plywood and trim the glass in a smooth fluid cut.
Clean the sharp edges of the glass using 80 sandpaper.
Rinse the glass with plywood.
You don\'t want to change the shape of the wood, you just want to remove any messy drops and leave a clean, smooth edge.
When you are on the deck, clear the edge of the deck.
While you are there, 2 inch down from the edge of the side, and the same on the deck.
This is to make the surface rough so that the internal tape is better attached.
The deck is located on the top of both sides of the hull.
First, align each end and fix them loosely with fibers
Strengthen packing tape.
Then, starting near the cockpit, tie the deck to the top edge of the side of the hull.
When you stick the tape down, pull it tight.
This will keep it better than loose.
If you need to align the deck to the side of the hull, you can stick an putty knife in the gap, then twist it and tape it down comfortably.
When seem is firmly fixed in place, go back with CA glue every 3 to 4 inch and do spot welding.
Check your route as you go and if you see any gaps you can push the deck tighter.
Spray glue on the throttle.
Then you can take off the tape.
Run a masking tape outside a pure seam.
This will prevent the epoxy from running out when we do the interior.
Do any drops-
By being as smooth as possible, you need smooth tape with no wrinkles.
The best way to do this is to stick the tape to one side of the seam when you distribute it, and then come back and fold it over the seam.
Brush on the stick!
We will lay a fiberglass tape at the seams inside.
We need a tool to get to the end.
Find a stick from the cockpit to both ends.
Cut one end at a 45 ° angle, twist the chip removal brush to the end, and cut the handle off the brush.
At the other end of the stick, gradually reduce the end a little, and then pass it with a small nail.
Bend the nail so it can point to the length of the stick.
Then rotate the nails to one side.
Tilt the boat at the edge of the horse you see, straight down.
A stick caught in the saw immediately will hold the boat firmly in place.
Small tape can stick the boat to a stick.
Measure the length of pre-
From pure online knuckles next to the cockpit to woven fiberglass tape at the bow.
Put a wax piece of paper on the floor or work table.
Wet the length of the tape with epoxy resin.
When you have a brush in your hand, pre-
Wet the on-inner lower seamits-side boat.
You can use your brushon-a-
Insist on letting the epoxy extend all the way to the end on the seam.
Make sure the tape is well saturated and even a little wet.
Roll it up loosely so you can take it to the ship.
Place the tape on the inside of the bottom seam;
Starting with 6 \"behind the knuckles, roll the cloth to the bow.
Put the tape on the seam, half of the hull;
Half on deck.
When you roll it down as much as you can;
Pull it back a bit so you can expand it into a neat Z-
Fold at the top of the seam.
Pick up the loose end of the tape with a nail on the stick.
Point the nail below, through the tape, and then rotate the nail to point it up.
Push the stick to the end of the boat and pull the tape with it.
When you tighten the tape, press and hold the end of the tape with one hand.
Keep the tape above the seam, then slowly release the tension on the tape so that the cockpit end begins to lie down at the seam.
Move the stick and keep the tape centered when the tape drops.
When the tape goes down all the way, rotate the stick and let the nail point down.
If the tape is not just falling off, push the tape release quickly and sharply.
Switch the end of the stick and fix the tape in the seam with a brush.
Brush a few layers of epoxy.
You want a thick epoxy coating to help make the fish fillet.
If the technology doesn\'t end up covering the seam with tape for the first time, don\'t spend too much energy using a stick to straighten out the tape, pull the tape back and try again.
Because we measured the straps from the knuckles to the stems, and we started the straps at 6 inch behind the knuckles, the straps did not extend all the way to the end.
This is intentional.
If the tape is too long, you will not be able to remove it from the stick.
Solve the problem by pulling the tape further away.
We will deal with it after the last few inches.
The tape should be roughly centered on the seam.
At least you want it to be a little bit on both sides of the seam.
When you finish the bow;
Do the same for the stern. ;
Make these settings firm so that when you turn the boat over and do the same on the other side, you don\'t put the tape on your head.
When the inner tape is cured, the masking tape is stripped from the outside.
Then bypass the pure line outside in the way you bypass China.
Start with the chamfer, knock the angle off the chamfer and smooth the circleover.
Polish the edges with sand to make them smooth and lightly polish the entire deck with 120 sand.
Polish the upper edge of the hull with 80 grains of sand to help the epoxy adhesion.
Run a masking tape about 1 inch away from the pure line.
Fold the bottom edge up a little so that any drop Epoxy does not run along the side of the boat.
Roll out a layer of fiberglass on the deck and trim it even at the bottom of the tape.
Start to wet the deck around the cockpit as it\'s the trickiest place to lay it flat.
Brush a little epoxy on the top and apply it with a scraper.
Take the epoxy off the side and wet the tape.
After completing the area around the cockpit, continue to moisten the rest of the deck in the same way as the hull.
Make sure the glass on the concealer tape is wet.
Brush some extra resin to the center line of the front deck to help fill the gap between the panels.
Let the epoxy be installed so that it starts to become rubber.
Put a brand new blade on your tool knife.
Gently rate the new glass surface directly above the tape.
Do not press hard or you will cut into the old glass.
It doesn\'t take much power to clip the fiber in a static place. soft resin.
Epoxy gets harder if you wait a long time, you need to press hard, but you don\'t want to press hard, otherwise you will get a permanent mark.
Lift the end of the tape and pull it off the boat, and the new cloth under the music line will take out the tape.
Work on both sides of the ship.
You can do the deck without this masking tape, but you end up with a lot of loose fiberglass lines that are all over the place and usually make a mess.
You now have something that looks a bit like a kayak.
You can cut the excess glass out of the hole in the cockpit.
Glue down the cockpit
Mix epoxy resin in colloidal silica, cellulose powder, or wood flour to make loose pastelike glue.
Brush this around the riser and cockpit.
Position the riser.
When you have all the parts ready for a layer, adjust the position to center it around the cockpit hole.
Apply glue on the top of the first layer and on the bottom of the next layer and create another laminate layer.
The minimum is a two-layer riser stack.
Three layers will do spray-skirt on-and-
A little easier.
Cover the entire bottom of the closed lip with a thick layer of epoxy resin to be completely waterproof.
Apply epoxy to the top laminate of the riser and then place the lip on the top.
Check the alignment of all lamination.
Make sure they all go around the hole.
Look at the ass-
The seams between the pieces of each layer are tight.
Add as many clips as possible around the enclosure.
Keep checking and don\'t knock any stacks out of place.
Align the tip of the fixture along the inner perimeter, and if you place the fixture too far from the inner edge, you bend the panel lip down.
Now, do whatever you can to clean up anything squeezed out.
Wrap your gloved fingers around the outer edge of the riser, under your lips.
Wipe the excess glue inside with an acid brush.
When the glue is still wet, the more glue you wipe, the less work you need to do after drying.
Clean up the glue using very rough rasp or files.
The Shinto Wood rasp displayed did a good job.
When the glue is cleared, it\'s time to circle around the edges.
Again, start by making a chamfer about 3/8 wide. A half-
Round rasp works well here.
After the chamfer, knock the corner down first, and then bypass it.
Do the same for the top and bottom inner edges of the enclosure.
If you have a round
On bit and router, you can use it at the top edge, but you still need to do the bottom edge by hand.
Clean your work with 80 sandpaper and then clean it with 100 and 120 sandpaper.
A good radius top and bottom will make the next glassing step much easier.
Sprinkle sand on the deck below the paddock and grind it rough.
Cut out the fiberglass strips about 4 to 5 \"wide.
Cut these to the weaving on the diagonal of 45 °e. on the “bias”. This bias-
The fabric is easily deformed.
That\'s why we use it, but that means you need to be careful with it.
Don\'t pull it up, just like you start with a piece of 4 \"wide, a small tugboat can pull it 1\" wide, it\'s not wide enough to cover the whole circumference
First apply some epoxy on the enclosure, then carefully lay the deviation
Simply press the fabric into the wet epoxy to cut the fabric to the vertical edge of the enclosure.
Then use your wood chip brush to get the cloth dab down.
Don\'t tap the fabric because it will deform.
Just press the cloth down with the tip of the brush.
Add epoxy as needed to saturate the fabric.
Make sure the cloth under the deck is also saturated.
Let the upper edge of the fabric hang on the edge of the lip of the panel.
Don\'t try to wrap it back under your lips.
If your cloth strip does not arrive all the way, cut the other piece, with more than 1 inch in the first lap.
After applying a layer of cloth around the enclosure, lay another layer so you can completely lay two layers of complete cloth around the cockpit.
When you have a wet brush, apply a filling coating on the entire deck.
Apply masking tape on the side of the hull about 1-
Down from pure 1/2 (
Deck glass trim 1/2 \"below the edge \".
Then brush an even layer of epoxy over the entire deck.
If you are more comfortable making a uniform coat with a foam roller, feel free to do so.
The goal is to build enough resin to fill the woven texture of the fiberglass fabric.
Apply the resin to the side of the masking tape.
Before removing the masking tape, let the filling coating cure for about 1 hour.
After the deck is cured, trim the excess cloth around the enclosure and polish it smooth.
Apply a fill coating on the paddock and flip the boat so you can work on the bottom.
We also want to make a filling coating at the bottom.
If you have some gaps on the glass near the stem, now is your chance to patch the gap, even if you don\'t patch the gap, it\'s a good idea to add some extra glass to the area.
Polish off any roughness at the \"bottom\" of the stem.
Run a masking tape about 1/2 m on a pure line.
Apply a good filling coating on the entire hull.
Then cut two bias bars of 3 \"x 12-cut fiberglass.
Put these on the bottom of the boat to protect this highwear area.
Do this for both ends.
After curing the resin for an hour, peel off the tape.
When Epoxy is difficult to install for a few days, it is time to start sanding.
We overlap the filling layer along the edge of the deck glass where there is a little bump.
This extra resin will make it easier to mask this edge.
Polish the whole ship into sand with 60 sands.
The goal is to make the surface of the ship smooth and flat.
Sand all the surfaces, but do not sand at the Chinese and pure angles.
It\'s easy to polish through these areas and we don\'t want to mess up the work of fiberglass.
Strive to get a uniform, matte finish throughout the ship.
Stop polishing if you start polishing fiberglass.
When you enter the glass, you will see that the little white dots in the weave pattern will begin to appear.
If you start to see the glass and you still have shiny spots in the area, you can apply another filling coating on the whole boat so you have more material to level the surface
Once you have a flat surface, you can come back and carefully polish the pure and slit with your hands.
When everything is evenly polished with 60 sand sandpaper, check all things again with 80 to 100 sand.
You are now ready to apply varnish or paint.
You need at least three layers of varnish or enough paint coating to make the paint opaque. Use a marine-
Style varnish with UV protection or external enamel paint.
The sea boat paint is good, but good plate paint is also OK.
Stick the seat to the bottom of the boat with contact cement.
The kit seat is first assembled by gluing two pieces of 1 \"minicell together.
You can make your own seat by carving 3 \"minicell.
The backrest is screwed from below into the plate riser.
About 1/4 from the inner edge of the cockpit, drill a small pilot hole into the riser lamination.
Screw in the widest part of the enclosure into the straps on both sides.
The backrest is supported by a shock rope on the back of the enclosure.
Use a plastic ring to hold the shock line.
Tie the shock rope so that the loop goes through the nylon loop on the back of the back. Go Paddling!
With new and upcoming social commerce technologies, the biggest change for building material supply marketers will be a shift in focus from branding to lead generation and conversion.
Above all, we expect to be a credit to the communities we serve, a valuable resource to our customers, and a place where our dedicated building material supply can grow and prosper.
In the boundless Chinese market, there are a number of enterprises that provides wood panel manufacturers building material supply of their own brand over the years, but few have won more support from customers on the international stage than Qin Ge Ceramic & Building.